Thursday, April 6, 2017

What Makes a Flowerhorn a Kamfa?



Most experienced flowerhorn keepers choose Kamfas over other types of flowerhorns such as Zhen Zhus. The primary reason for this choice is that Kamfas although not the easiest to groom, possess certain traits that make them very desirable.

Flowerhorns are basically hybrids which makes it impossible to call a particular species a pure Kamfa or a pre Zhen Zhu however, a flowerhorn is classified as a Kamfa when that particular fish possesses at least 75% of “Kamfa traits” such as the ones listed below. Continue reading to know more.

5 Traits Kamfas Must Possess
Square body: A Kamfa must display a body shape that is square, as a long tapering body is typically the characteristics of a Zhen Zhu and not a Kamfa.
Round Lips: This is a must as high quality Kamfas have round lips, not a pointy mouth as seen mainly in Zhen Zhus.
No under bite/no overbite: Typically an under bite and an over bite are Zhen Zhu traits. High quality Kamfas rarely display such defects.
Wrapped Fins: This is a prerequisite of Kamfas. Kamfas must have strong fins that are wrapped, for instance the dorsal fin and anal fin should wrap around the caudal fin. In addition, the Kamfa should not have long and trailing fins as this trait is displayed mainly by Zhen Zhus.
A Strong Tail: The rays in the caudal tail of a Kamfa must be strong and upright, they should not cause the tail to droop. Zhen Zhus are typically prone to a drooping and weak tails.

Kamfas vs. King Kamfas
Flowerhorns that possess majority of the traits mentioned above are termed as Kamfas. However; in addition to the characteristics mentioned above, King Kamfas also possess vivid colours, an excellent pearl coverage and strong markings which makes them a beautiful sight to watch. All Kamfas cannot be termed as King Kamfas, only the top 2 to 10% of a high quality batch of fry can be categorised as King Kamfas.

Important Facts About Classic Kamfas
Classic Kamfas have more of Vieja Synpila genes in them which causes them to possess dual colours. The colours can range from pink to orange, yellow and other pastel shades. In addition, Classic Kamfas are typically larger at adult size as compared to other types of Kamfas. Classics also have white eyes as opposed to red eyes of modern day Kamfas.

Kamfa Faders: Myth or Fact?
Just like other types of flowerhorns, Kamfas can fade as well. The process of the scales going from a normal colour, to black and finally peeling is known as the fading process. Fader Kamfas typically have white eyes and should have vivid colours along with the other Kamfa traits. Fader Kamfas like other types of faders are devoid of pearls.

Special Note on Eye Colours
The older line of Kamfas had either white or orange eyes. At times the older line of Kamfas also had yellow eyes; however the modern day Kamfas and king Kamfas can have red eyes as well. The eye colour is used to determine the fertility of a Kamfa as well, usually white eye Kamfas are sterile, which implies that they cannot father a batch of fry. There are very few exceptions, however, the general rule is that white eye Kamfas are infertile, yellow and orange eye Kamfas have a slightly higher chance of being fertile while red eye Kamfas have the highest chance of being fertile. It is important to note that the eye colour of a flowerhorn can be used as a guideline to select breeder fish, however, at times red eye Kamfas are infertile as well and/or they are unable to raise a batch with care. Moreover, practice does make cichlids perfect while raising fry, thus if a flowerhorn male or females eats the first few batches of fry, it does not mean that he cannot learn to raise and groom fry later on in his life. 

Flowerhorn multiple tank syndrome


Wait a Minute, I have MTS!!!

That Sudden Realization – You Have MTS!
Have you ever walked by an aquarium shop, stood by the show tanks and found yourself gazing in awe at a Flowerhorn, you must add to your collection? Do you find yourself looking for Master Piece Flowerhorns online more than once a month while waiting for your pay check to clear? If your answers are yes oh indeed, then congratulations my fellow hobbyist, you are affected with MTS.

Hobbyists who are new to keeping fish often joke about how they are affected with Multiple Tank Syndrome and how they need just “one” last tank to be happy. Some hobbyists believe they have the needed space to add 1last partition to their tank. MTS is an actuality of the Flowerhorn hobby that makes avid hobbyists go berserk when they see a Flowerhorn that is worth investing in. MTS is actually a good thing, if you can maintain water quality and keep your flowerhorns happy. However, MTS is not the best thing that can happen to your fish, if you only worry about adding flowerhorns and forget about water parameters.

How can we strike a balance between “MTS” and good quality water is a million dollar question indeed as even the best hobbyists might find it tough to strike a balance on some days. The facts mentioned below will give you an insight about overstocking fish tanks, using water testing kits and maintaining prime water conditions, so that you are better prepared to purchase new flowerhorns without having any regrets.

Overstocking Fish Tanks, Spacing Partitions and Water Quality
Imagine this, there is a sale and you have seen yet another magnificent kamfa worth buying and you can manage to add another partition to squeeze just 1 more Flowerhorn in your aquarium. Here are just a few things to consider when you are planning to purchase your next Flowerhorn.

1.Overstocked tanks are similar to time bombs that can go off when you least expect them to. There are various issues that commonly occur in tanks that are partitioned; partitions falling, flowerhorns jumping over the partition, inadequate space for each Flowerhorn and finally water quality deterioration due to inadequate filtration and water changes.

2.The bare minimum a fry needs to be raised into a beautiful and healthy adult is 20 gallons of water. As the fry grows, the space and quantity of water he needs will increase. The bare minimum each Flowerhorn requires when he reaches full size is 75 gallons of water. The tank that houses an adult Flowerhorn should be wide enough not to constrict it when it turns as repeated constricted movements can cause a bent spine. Flowerhorns can grow up to 12 -13 inches depending on the type of built, type of breed and the space they get.

3.Flowerhorns that jump partitions can be mauled to death by other flowerhorns. Similar situations can arise when partitions slip and flowerhorns from different compartments are allowed to interact.

4.An overstocked tank will affect the water quality in more than just 1 way. Each Flowerhorn you add to the tank will increase the ammonia levels of the water, which will in turn increase the chances of diseases if the tank is not cleaned often. The clarity of the water will be affected as well.

5.The number of filters and air pumps that have to be used will increase. Your electricity bill might spike up, if you are using heaters that are switched on for 24 hours, 7 days a week.

Here are just a few suggestions and solutions to help making fish keeping more enjoyable not only for you but also for your prized flowerhorns.

Plan ahead and Stock Your Tanks Wisely
1.Instead of overstocking tanks, adding too many partitions, look for a permanent housing option for each of your Flowerhorn. Raising a fry in a 75 gallons tank might seem like overkill, but it will ensure that in the future you do not have to worry about space issues, filtration issues, water quality and other things that might make keeping fish a sore that you cannot seem to get rid of.

2.A fry in a 75 gallon tank can and will grow faster while being healthy as the fry will have the needed space to grow. He will also have prime water conditions and will be at a reduced risk of illness and injury.

If Partitions Are Your Choice, then Play Safe and Act with Caution
1.If you choose to partition your tanks, then use partitions wisely. Use dividers with suction cups that are strong and durable. If you feel that 2 partitions will hold the glass, then add an additional 2 dividers to ensure that your prized and expensive flowerhorns survive. Keep the water level 3 inches below what you feel is right as flowerhorns jump.

2.Each partition should be well spaced, well filtered and heated. Following the 25-30 gallons per fry rule is a good way to start; however, ensure that the spacing between the partition increases as the Flowerhorn grow in length and width. If possible get partitions with holes drilled into them. The holes should not be too big, too small and too many. Choosing an acrylic partition with 6- 12 holes should suffice.

3.If you are planning to invest in customized filters, then a filter has more capacity than what you feel is needed. Filtering a tad bit more than the norm, is always better than under filtering. You can choose from external canister filters, trickle filters, overhead filters, submersible mini canister filters, sponge filters and 3 step filtration devices. Maybe choose a combination of 2 or more types of filters if you want to give your Flowerhorn, nothing but the best.

4.If possible, choose a filter that allows you to harvest more beneficial bacteria in the tank, choosing a variety of filter media such as bio-foam, bio-balls and dead coral can help. Use carbon filter pads with care, increased exposure to carbon filter pads can eventually strip the tank of the needed trace minerals that are naturally occurring in tank water.

5.Remember to clean your filters periodically. When you clean the filters, you will have to either use aged water or tank water to clean the filter media. Directly using tap water can cause the beneficial bacteria in the tank to decrease significantly. The general norm is that canister filters need to be cleaned less frequently as compared to other types of filters, however, use your judgment while following this norm.

6.Use multiple heaters of lesser wattage, this will ensure that if one heater fails, the other 2 heaters still work. Heater malfunctions are common in cheaper brands. Purchase heaters from a brand that you trust, this is a one-time investment that can save the lives of your prized and expensive flowerhorns.

7.Ammonia is a substance that is released into the tank water when a fish breathes, by taking in water through the gills, removing the needed oxygen from the water and letting out the remaining water that is not needed. Larger amounts of ammonia are released into the water when a fish poops. Uneaten food particles are another source of ammonia. Beneficial bacteria work by converting ammonia which is the most harmful toxin, into nitrites which are dangerous at a lesser degree to finally nitrates which are the least dangerous toxins in the nitrogen cycle.

8.Your tank can complete the nitrogen cycle in 4-8 weeks depending on how many fish you have in it and what method of cycling do you use. Adding bacteria to the fish tank without any fish in it is known as the fishless cycle, it can quicken the process of the nitrogen cycle and is recommended for hobbyists who do not want to stress out their flowerhorns while the tank completes the 3 step cycle. Water changes have to be performed when the aquarium is going through the nitrogen cycle, as water changes will control the amounts of the toxins in the tank as the cycle is progressing from ammonia to just nitrates.

9.Fix a weekly water changes schedule and stick to it, no exceptions. As far as possible, change a minimum of 30% water in your tank twice a week, do not exceed changing more than 50% water in your tank in the same day. Using a test kit will help you understand the levels of the 3 toxin in your tank, and how to lower these levels in a safe and effective way. Twice a week water changes are an excellent idea; however if you are in doubt then buy a test kit today. Test kits are the optimal way to know the level of ammonia, nitrites and nitrate levels in your fish tank. Once you get a hang of things, you can choose if you want to invest in test kits, or wing it, but until you are an advanced fish keeper, stick to using test kits. Test kits are best used before you perform a water change.

10.The amount of water you change will directly affect the health of your Flowerhorn. Small and frequent water changes are better than large water changes that are performed once in a way. Large water changes not only shock your Flowerhorn but also the beneficial bacteria in the tank. Large water changes that are performed once in a blue moon, can also cause your Flowerhorn to fall ill, as by the time the water is changed in the aquarium, the nitrate levels would have built up significantly.

Bottom Line
Fish keeping is indeed a beautiful thing where you can raise some of the finest flowerhorns there are, provided you maintain water parameters. Remember, MTS is not something people will frown upon, provided you have the needed space and can maintain the required water parameters to ensure that your fish thrive in their home. 

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Wound


Treatment:

1. Clean top Filters with tank water.

2. Change water with aged water.

3. Add Salt 1 tsp per 10 gallons.

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Swollen Lips


Treatment:

1. Do a 30% water change.

2. Add Salt, 1 tsp per 10 gallons.

3. Add Methylene Blue. Make sure you follow the dosage indicated on the container.

4. Repeat treatment after 2 days if necessary.

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Itch / White spots


Symptoms:

Your fish will be covered with white cysts on the skin, fins and gills. Heavily infected fish looks as if they have been
sprikled with sugar and pepper grains. They may scratch themselves against gravel or decorations in the aquarium.

Treatment:

1. Add Salt 1 tsp per 10 gallons.

2. Increase the water temperature up to 30-32 degrees.

3. Add Methylene Blue and Malachite Green into the water for 3-5 days may help too. Make sure you follow the dosage
indicated on the container.

Where to buy?

- Methylene Blue and Malachite Green is available in your nearest pet shop.

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Swim Bladder


Symptoms:

Abnormal swimming pattern, They may even float upside down or appear to be stuck at the surface of the water, being unable to
swim down, or they may lie on the bottom, unable to rise. Fish with a swim bladder disorder will continue to try and feed,
showing a normal appetite.

Cause: improper diet

Treatment:

1. Do a water change of 25%.

2. Apply Furazolidone to the water at a dosage of 100mg. tablet per 20 gallons.

3. To apply Furazolidone, just dip the tablet with your fingers into the tank and crush the tablet/s until dissolved.

4. Keep doing water changes every other day. Apply medication again once water turns clear.

Where to buy?

- Furazolidone, this drug can be bought over the counter (OTC) at any drugstore.

- Other medicines are Furoxan, Furassan Furan 3 and Sera Baktopur direct. Both are available in pet shops.

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Protruding scales (dropsy)


Protruding scales

Treatment:

1. Daily water change of 30-40%.

2. Add rock salt at 1 tsp per 5 gallons.

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Fin rot


Treatment:

1. Place yor fish in a Hospital tank. The water should came from the original tank.

2. Remove your fish from the tank and dab the affected portion with Betadyne. It should be done in a fast motion. Place
your fish in the hospital tank.

3. Increase the temperature to 30-32 degrees.

4. Add Methylene blue. Make sure you follow the dosage indicated on the container.

5. Add Tetracyclene. 500 mg. per 20 gallons. dissolve it first into a cup of water before adding it to the hospital tank.

6. Daily 30% water change and add Methylene blue and Tetracyclene proportionately in the changed water.

Where to buy?

- Tetracycline, this drug can be bought over the counter (OTC) at any drugstore. Each 500 mg. tablet would cost P6.50.

- Methylene Blue is available in your nearest pet shop.

- You can also use Sera Baktopur (for fin rot). It is available in your nearest pet shop. Make sure you follow the dosage
indicated on the container.

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Pimples


Treatment:

1. Change water at 30-40%.

2. Put Tetracycline 500mg. per 20 gals.

3. The water will turn into brownish color for five days. If still not effective after five days, add half more of the
dosage.

4. If the fish is well already, do a daily water change of 10% until the water gets clear.

Where to buy?

- Tetracycline, this drug can be bought over the counter (OTC) at any drugstore. Each 500 mg. tablet would cost P6.50.

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Hexamitiasis (Hexa)


Symptoms: White feces, Lack of appetite and visible holes seen around the head.

Cause: Infection caused by hexanita, a type of flagelleated protozoa and also caused by cold water temperature.

Treatment A:

1. Transfer your fish to a 5 gallons hospital tank.

2. Put Furasan Furan 3 into tank. 1 sachet is equivalent to 4 dosage. Put 1 part into 5 gallons tank.

3. Daily water change of at least 20-25%.

4. if you have a heater, set it at 30-32 degrees.

5. After 3 days, if you observed that your fish is eating already, still continue with the medication.

6. If the feces turns into it's original color, then it's time to reduce the dosage. Put Furan 3 every other day for at
least another week.

*** It's best to put your fish in a small tank because it will give more concentration of the medicine, plus you don't have
to use a lot of it.

Where to buy?

- Furassan Furan 3 is available in your nearest pet shop.


Treatment B:

1. If you're using an overhead filter (OHF), remove the carbon if any.

2. Do a 50% water change. Syphon your tank until it's half empty. Replace with 25% chlorinated water and 25% conditioned
water. (must be aerated for at least 48 hours and dosed with Sera Aquatan)

3. Dissolve the Metronidazole tablet/s in a cup of warm water. It works best when dissolved at a temperature of 90+
degrees. A cup with 50%-60% "cofee-hot" water plus 40%-50% tap water would be fine.

4. Let the tablet/s dissolve for 5-10 minutes. Afterwards, mix well.

5. Drop the Metronidazole solution in your tank. the required dosage would be 500 mg. per 10 gallons.

6. Repeat steps 2-5 after 48 hours. You'd need around 7-8 doses of Metronidazole. Usual treatment would be from 10-15
days. Observe the waste of your fish on a regular basis. If your fish shows improvement before 10-15 days, there's nothing
wrong in finishing the entire cycle. extend treatment if neccessary.

7. If you have a heater, set it at 30-32 degrees. Hexamita thrives in cold water. While the medication used to kill them
works best in warm water. For those with no heaters, don't worry. Its not absolutely neccessary to use one. Just be sure
to dissolve the Metronidazole in a warm water.

*** If you've got more time to treat your fish then you could apply the following protocol:

1. Again do steps 1 through 5.

2. After 24 hours, implement a 20-25% water change.

3. Drop your Metronidazole solution but this time at 250 mg. per 10 gallons. Repeat steps 2 and 3 everyday until the fish
recovers.

Where to buy?

- Metronidazole, usually sold as Flagyl. This drug can be bought over the counter (OTC) at any drugstore. Each 500 mg.
tablet would cost around P16-P18.

- Sera Aquatan is available in your nearest pet shop.


Best food for recovering would be frozen blood worms or meal worms.

Flowerhorn Diseases and Cure - Bulging Anus


Bulging Anus

Symptoms: The intestine of the fish is bulging.

Cause: Fish under Severe stress (as in the case of newly transported fish) and Suffering from severe indigestion ( common for
small fish fed with shrimp, Superworms or any live feeds)

Treatment:

1. If you're using an overhead filter (OHF), remove the carbon if any.

2. Do a 50% water change. Syphon your tank until it's half empty. Replace with 25% chlorinated water and 25% conditioned
water. (must be aerated for at least 48 hours and dosed with Sera Aquatan)

3. Dissolve the Metronidazole tablet/s in a cup of warm water. It works best when dissolved at a temperature of 90+
degrees. A cup with 50%-60% "cofee-hot" water plus 40%-50% tap water would be fine.

4. Let the tablet/s dissolve for 5-10 minutes. Afterwards, mix well.

5. Drop the Metronidazole solution in your tank. the required dosage would be 500 mg. per 10 gallons.

6. If you have a heater, set it at 40-32 degrees. For those with no heaters, don't worry. Its not absolutely neccessary to
use one. Just be sure to dissolve the Metronidazole in a warm water.

7. After 24 hours, implement a 20-25% water change.

8. Drop your Metronidazole solution but this time at 250 mg. per 10 gallons. Repeat steps 2 and 3 everyday until the fish
recovers.

Where to buy?

- Metronidazole, usually sold as Flagyl. This drug can be bought over the counter (OTC) at any drugstore. Each 500 mg.
tablet would cost around P16-P18.

- Sera Aquatan is available in your nearest pet shop

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Flowerhorn grooming question and answer


1. What is the most ideal pH level required ?
The ideal pH level in the water required should be around pH 7 to pH 7.8.

2. Why does the protruding forehead of my fish shrink after each water change ?
It is a normal reaction to the changes of the water quality. The fish will return to its old self in a couple of days.

3. Why is the forehead (nuchal hump or kok) of my fish small ?
There are a few reasons to this. Please check on the pH level of the water. Check the sex of the fish. Another reason can be the strain of this particular breed do not have a big protruding forehead.

4. Why is the color of my flower horn dull ?
Again, check the pH level of the water. It can also be the breed of this strain does not produce striking colors.

5. How can I tell if the fish is sick ?
First of all, the fish will have no appetite. Secondly, the color of the fish is pale or has a very dark color on its body. Being inactive is also another sign that the fish is not feeling well.

6. Is there any preventive measures to ensure that the fish is healthy ?
Please check on the food that it consumes. This refers to live fish food, as sometimes the food might be contaminated. The environment of the fish is as important. Please ensure that the water temperature and water quality is at the optimum. Or else, please go ahead and change the aquarium water.

7. Do we need to keep the aquarium lighted the whole time ?
It is better to turn off the lights at night as this will create a better environment for the fish to rest.

8. Will the fish die if it is not fed for two to three days ?
Do not worry, as the fish will lasts for week without feeding. Do not stock the aquarium with one week's supply of food. Just ensure that the water quality is good.

9. Why does the fish jump ?
It could be some insects flying on the surface of the aquarium. Another reason is that water quality in the aquarium is not suitable.

10. What is the most ideal water temperature ?
The range should be between 27 °C to 32°C.

11. Can I rear this fish in a temperate / colder climate ?
Most definitely. You are only required to add a water heater.

12. Why does my newly bought fish not lively and very timid ?
It is actually a normal reaction. Once the fish gets adjusted to its new environment, it will be back to its aggressive self. During this period of time, feed the fish sparingly as there will be a loss of appetite as well. ]

13. How long does it take for my fish to get use to its new environment ?
It will normally take between one to two weeks.

14. Is the fish feed a better choice ?
Just make sure that the content of the feed is 100 % natural, and contains high protein. Besides, it is much cost effective that to feed live feed as it might cause disease.

15. How frequent do I feed the fish ?
Feeding basically depends on the lifestyle of its respective owners. Ideally, the fish should be fed at least twice a day and make sure that the fish is full after each feeding. Again, this depends on the owner of the fish. Some claimed that their fish are fed three to four times a day.

16. How can I tell the sex of this fish ?
The most accurate way is look at the anal pore of the fish. The male fish has a V-shaped anal pore. As for the female, it will have a U - shaped anal pore. Generally, it will be easier to identify the sex of the fish when it is around 4 inches in length. 

Are color enhancers safe to flowerhorn?



 

Absolutely, all keto-carotenoids in GSR are natural-occuring and could even be given in higher than normal dosages. Astaxanthine in particular is very well recognized for its extremly effective color-enhancing properties for fish -- most particularly for reds, oranges, and yellows.

What makes astaxanthine’s color-enhancing properties a cut above the rest is that it will have several health promoting properties that cannot be found in artificial enahncers. Astaxanthine is a scientifically-proven effective anti-oxidant. So it will be very effective for increased oxygen circulation and muscular development. The most essential health promoting properties of astax may be summarized as such:

-A Vitamin A precursor in fish, much like the role of Beta-Carotene in humans
-an extremely effective anti-stress agent
-minimizes weight loss
-a higher survival rate
-stimulates the fish immunity system
-enhances the liver cells
-enhances glycogen storage (for more fish energy)
-increases the amounts of vitamin A,C, & E
-increases fish fertility

These are just some of the health-promoting effects of astax. More studies are needed. But the beneficial effects are already recognized; they may even be more than outlined above:

Other studies have noted the health-giving effects of astax on other animals. Experiments on cattle and fowl in particular have associated astax with increased resistance to diseases such as salmonella. Chicken fed with small amounts of astax produce eggs with yellower and larger yolks.

Astax has been associated with decreased cholesterol levels in some fish such as salmon, and other mammals. It is also said to be effective against aging, muscular atrophy, rheumatism, even cancer.

There are thus many serious studies currently being undertaken on the applications of astxanthine usage for the health of humans.

The color-promoting properties of astax in fish are already of very high repute. But in the light of recent studies, some have gone even further by suggesting that astax should be considered as an essential vitamin for fish, or at the very least a fertility and growth enhancer.

Perhaps the most immediately notable thing about astax is that it actually increases fertility in fish, since everybody in the hobby knows that standard colour enhancers make fish infertile. Practically everyone in the hobby issues this warning to would-be users. Astax will do precisely the reverse. You’ll get more spawns, and stronger hatchlings.

But as my discussion above has shown, the matter of natural versus artificial enhancers goes way, way beyond fertility. And it should be recognized as such. The issue of general health and longer life is what matters the most.

The contrast of astax with artificial enhancers may be quite startling. Many artificial enhancers may eventually cause renal and kidney failure after prolonged use. They may cause damage to liver tissue. They will therefore tend to decrease the lifespan of a fish. Increased nervousness has likewise been associated with some artificial enahncers. The effects on the reproductive system are already well-known as noted above. In a nutshell, artificial enhancers may tend to do the exact opposite.

It may be unethical for me to say which enhancers are bad and which are good, which are artificial and which are not. All we have to say is that we have always made it a point -- and in our own humble way -- to be somehow at breast with the latest in fish nutrition. And we could only deal with those who are at the very forefront of all-natural fish nutrition technologies. We believe fish health comes first. And if our foods give results that are as effective, or actually even more effective than others with artificial enhancers, then we’d be left with the sweet and savory satisfaction of a job well done.


The whole point of this digression is as follows: The colour results will speak for themselves. But the less evident results, or the more unknown facts, must definitely be made known. With a high astax pellet, you get very radiant-colours, and much, much more; including a very healthy, robust, and longer-living fish.

What are the nutrients flowerhorn needs?

The Nutrients that flowerhorn needs



1. CARBOHYDRATES & FATS - are the most important energy sources in the food. However, if an oversupply occurs, especially FAT, it gets enriched with the body and can lead to fattening and organ damage. Therefore, the food should be low in fat ( best below 6% ). Exemption : Food for rearing young fish may contain up to 8 % fat.

2. PROTEIN - consist of long chain amino acids. The protein chains dissolve into separate amino acids during digestion. The fish absorbs the amino acids, which the fish uses for BUILDING UP muscles. Rich-in-protein food is real " power nutrition " for very fish. Animal protein is usually faster & easier to digest than vegetable protein. Thus, fish that mainly feed on meat or on other fish have only short, straight bowels. Herbivore fish ( pleco ) have long, spirally wound bowels. These difference have to be considered to provide nutrition according to the requirements of the fish.

3. TRACE ELEMENTS - fulfill different functions in the body. Regarded as "tools" of the organism, they are indispensable part of enzymes. Trace elements are, as the name implies, only required in very small amount.

4. MINERALS - ( e.g. calcium ) are important for building up of the skeleton & therefore, the healthy growth of the fish.

5. BALLAST SUBSTANCES - have no direct nutritional value for the fish, yet they are very important: They have an effective defense against inertia of the bowels, which will otherwise cause intestinal complication. Bowel inertia occurs, for example, feeding discus cichlids or flowerhorn only with foods low in ballast substance, such as scraped beef heart, for over a prolonged period, this is a severe unbalanced source of nutrition.


6. VITAMINS - is a generic term from entirely different active substance, which they have nothing in common at all. They possess many different functions & each required amount differs strongly from other. A lack of one vitamin cannot compensate with an oversupply of another vitamin, thus food rich with multi vitamins is needed.

How to feed your flowerhorn

WET FOODS






First, let’s talk about wet foods. By wet foods we mean frozen foods such as frozen bloodworms, beef or chicken heart, market shrimp/prawn, fish fillet, etc. In the early days of flowerhorns in the Philippines, and here we’re talking circa 2000-2001, we had practically nothing to bank on save the practices of equally inexperienced or novice "flowerhorn" enthusiasts abroad. The prevailing school of thought at the time was that LHs should be fed as much protein as possible and hardly any others such as carbs, fats, etc. The advantages of feeding wet foods are known by now: easy weight gains, more accessible sources of supply, and higher fish acceptability.

But in retrospect, this view was clearly mistaken. What people failed to see at the time were:

1. Balanced nutrition - Feeding nothing but, say, beef heart or market shrimp will necessarily lead to nutritional deficiencies, most especially after prolonged periods. Essential sources of carbs for energy and digestion, vitamins and minerals for increased resistance to disease and better colors, etc. were clearly lacking. Take beef heart for instance. Fish will grow quickly on this food. But their colors shall be very dull. They also tend to be more prone to disease due to a weaker metabolism.

2. Right sources of protein - Studies have shown how the sources of protein count in two ways: in terms of absorption of nutrients into the bloodstream, and in terms of digestion. In terms of nutrient absorption, the most appropriate form of proteins should come from marine animals foremost of all, and complemented by plant sources. Digestion-wise, any plant source would be OK since we’re essentially looking at cellulose common to all plants, marine or otherwise. The proportions must be proper though, most particularly in cases involving less digestible algae. But animal sources such as beef heart, liver, or other meats clearly shall fail the digestibility test. Many fish overloaded with meat-based frozen foods may suffer from indigestion and other complications including the bloat and internal parasitic infections.

3. Proper delivery systems - Frozen foods such as prawns are very good. They have good amounts of protein and natural-occurring pigments for color enhancement. Unfortunately, we have to consider the delivery system of the food. First, frozen foods once thawed have to be fed. They will have to be fresh all the time. In the case of shrimp, stock them too long, even if frozen, and they turn putrid. Then you feed this to your fish unaware of the toll on its health. More importantly, when frozen foods are thrown into the tank water, organic juices ooze out of the food almost uncontrollably. This takes its toll on water parameters as these very juices will decompose right in the water, which in turn will take its toll on your LH’s health and growth potential. Hexamitiasis, pop eye, fin rot, bloat -- these are diseases very common in tanks where too much wet food feeding is practiced.


Live Foods






By live foods, we pertain to live bloodworms, feeder fish, kataba, meal worms, super worms, etc. They may be categorized as in-water and out-water live foods.


1. In-Water: As a rule, feeding live foods found in water to LHs is extremely ill-advised. Take kataba for instance. Most of the time we don’t know the quality of the water from whence they came. As for live bloodworms, the mouths of LHs are simply too big. What binds the bloodworms together are actually bacterial clusters. LH will tend to eat these as well. Disease transmittal is therefore very high in cases of feeding live foods found in water. Feeder fish may be a possible exception if they are to be found in tanks with clean water and are disinfected first. But the risks of disease transmittal are still high compared to non-water live foods. The risks are much higher if compared to dry foods.

One colleague of mine lost hundreds of thousands of pesos worth of adult flowerhorns after feeding them bad kataba. They died just a few days after feeding. I’ve heard of a larger number of sad stories for smaller LHs fed with live bloodworms.

2.Out-water: In the context of fish feeding, out-water live foods will essentially be comprised of meal worms, super worms, crickets, and other insects. It is generally much safer to feed these depending on the choice. Obviously, cockroaches are a no-no. As for superworms, we actually see even people eating these on TV; Just one note though, superworms and mealworms will still require some maintenance in the form of beddings and changes thereof.

We have mentioned earlier that marine proteins are to be preferred to other proteins. Superworms and mealworms need some qualification. Unlike meats, they are more easily digestible. Insect protein is also generally higher on a per gram basis compared to meats from cattle or fowl. They may also contain higher amounts of fat and high levels of calcium. They will not promote color though. In sum, these foods would be OK as an additional and occasional protein kick, but they should not be relied on for staple food.

Dried Foods




By dried foods we pertain to either pellets (extruded floating or sinking, starch bound) or dried animals such as shrimp, insects, etc.

1. Pellets: There will be no debate that pellets will have to comprise the vast bulk of food a flowerhorn will need to eat for better health and optimum potential. And the better the pellet, the better the result.

1a. In terms of balanced nutrition - Unlike the above-mentioned foods, good pellets shall contain many ingredients from various animal and plant sources providing proteins, carbs, and fats plus supplemental vitamins and minerals. These cannot be provided by meats alone.

1b. Right sources of protein - Most pellets shall have ingredients coming from marine animal meal such as fish, shrimp, and crustaceans. Good brand pellets will even have carefully selected sources and types of fish meal, shrimp meal, soya, etc. for good quality and optimum results. Believe me, there is a big difference between, say, Peruvian fish meal and Dutch fish meal.

1c. In terms of delivery systems - Since pellets are dry foods, organic juices won’t ooze out immediately once these are thrown in the water. And a properly designed pellet won’t make the water milky.

2. Dried Animals: As a rule, freeze-dried foods are to be preferred over sun-dried ones since the latter shall hardly have any nutrients left once fed to the fish. A good freeze-dried food is krill (Antartica, Superba). These promote color and contain around 65% protein. But again, these alone cannot comprise a flowerhorn’s diet.


Etc.

Just some additional pointers. I’m not so sure if its expert’s opinion but it does not mean that high protein pellets should sink. This is false. Pellets that float have an outer coating that prevents water from seeping in, keeping the air packets inside filled with air. As such, it floats. Sinking pellets won’t have the same outer coating so they sink once thrown into the water. A pellet with 48% protein may be a floater. While an extruded crumble may contain 25% protein but be a sinker.

As a rule, diet requirements and feeding frequency will change with a fish’s age. But this will have to be the stuff of another post. I could only discuss this in passing later below.

As for pumping, it also has to be qualified: LH’s shall be quick growing only until around 8 inches. After that, it’s a much slower growth rate. Keep on pumping and your fish will turn fat and lethargic. Obviously, if a 10-inch fish is underweight, it may nonetheless deserve a pump. But pumping by definition is something temporary. It should not be done for too prolonged a period.

Why do we feed superworms, frozen bloodworms, etc? Essentially because others do. But we will have to give out some pointers. Superworms may be fed to your fish, but only for purposes of additional growth kicks and food variety. 1-3 times per week would already be a good baseline for such feeding. It may be lower or altogether unnecessary for large and stocky fish. As for frozen bloodworms, the same rationale and principle applies. Note however that frozen bloodworms may also provide added disease resistance. In the strict sense however, these foods could actually be considered optional, or non-essential if you may. They are occasional treats. But they can’t really be used as staple food if long term health and optimum fish potential are to be considered, most especially in the case of a hybrid such as the LH.

Pellets and Contents

As for your query about the contents in pellet labels, it would be worth elaborating in more detail. Unfortunately I’m running out of space. So I’ll just keep it short.

Pellets by definition are nutritionally dense. Just look at the moisture content. It seldom breaches the 13% mark. In contrast, all meats and live foods will have way, way more than half their weight (often some 75%) attributed to water. As such, in the case of pellets, high nutritional values are possible within compact amounts of food.

I think your concern here would be on the accuracy of the nutrients in the label. Honestly, anyone could say that their pellets or flakes will contain this or that amount of protein, etc. But in many instances, this may not be true. To be safe, be sure the fish foods you buy are accredited by the Bureau of Animal Industry.

It’s really no joke to get accreditation. It took the Grand Sumo brand for instance more than 4 months and at least 3 studies, including one from the University of Sains, Malaysia, one from the US, and one from the Malaysian Veterinary Bureau before approval was given. Conflicting results were eventually tallied and reconciled by way of the Blight & Dyer technique. Not all pellet brands in the market have gone through rigid testing, much less, accreditation.

All our products are scientifically tested and verified. GS is actually a good friend of the scientific community. GS Red in particular took up more than 9 months’ worth of serious development. Conceptualization actually occurred much earlier. Rajah was 6 months in the making. You could just imagine all the formulation, testing, trials, reformulation, etc. that came with the development of these foods. It’s really no joke. Of course, there will be serious foods designed for serious flowerhorn hobbyists. Herein lies the challenge.

On protein requirements, smaller fish shall need higher amounts compared to older ones. As a rule, a high protein pellet would be more than 40% protein. Honestly, cichlids in general will need just around 30-35% protein as a basic requirement. 48-50% would probably be optimal already for a premium line pellet. More than 52% in a pellet may be a bit redundant already if fed liberally. (The body could only absorb a given amount of protein at a given time. The surplus comes out in the form of fat.) But it is possible and will be of use for hobbyists who know how to feed properly. More than 55% protein may already appear doubtful to many, most especially if a pellet in question looks starchy and not smooth and dense.

In contrast to pellets, it will be possible for freeze-dried foods to contain very high percentages of protein, as is the case with freeze-dried krill and dried silkworm pupae or chrysalis meal, where 65% is quite common.